The Big Boss - Russell BriceIt's May so you know what that means - time to Summit Mount Everest!
On May 17th alone, over 50 people made the summit. Last year over 400 people made it. Barely. The traffic at the summit is so intense that climbers make it all the way, only to be turned back at the last minute because there are 50 other people ahead of them at the Hillary Step. Video footage is disturbing and sad.
Purists are freaking out over the commercialism of the climb. There is no mountaineering skill required anymore. As a matter of fact a 22-yr old British woman just became the youngest Brit to summit. Her previous experience? "climbing the stairs of my home." This is insulting beyond belief and we're not even climbers. A 13-yr old boy from California is on the mountain now trying to become the youngest person ever to summit. Gross!
Update: He's been turned back due to high winds. Will try again tomorrow.
On May 17th alone, over 50 people made the summit. Last year over 400 people made it. Barely. The traffic at the summit is so intense that climbers make it all the way, only to be turned back at the last minute because there are 50 other people ahead of them at the Hillary Step. Video footage is disturbing and sad.
Purists are freaking out over the commercialism of the climb. There is no mountaineering skill required anymore. As a matter of fact a 22-yr old British woman just became the youngest Brit to summit. Her previous experience? "climbing the stairs of my home." This is insulting beyond belief and we're not even climbers. A 13-yr old boy from California is on the mountain now trying to become the youngest person ever to summit. Gross!
Update: He's been turned back due to high winds. Will try again tomorrow.
For us, there is controversy over our favorite mountain guide, Russell "Big Boss" Brice. Brice, who's Discovery Channel reality show "Everest" Beyond the Limit" became a hit, is owner of Himalayan Expeditions , a highly successful commercial Everest climbing group. Brice is accused of being both a monster and a saint on the mountain.
2 incidents in 2006 nearly ruined him.
In 2006, David Sharpe, another Brit, lay dying near the summit trail, while dozens of climbers passed him by. Some stopped to talk, but realized there was nothing to do for him and left him to die. Most of the climbers that day were from HimEx, Russell's group and were told by Russell to "let him go." It has been called "the most shameful act in the history of mountaineering."
First of all, Brice insists there was no call to let him know about David until that night. There is no audio either, although Discovery was filming him 24/7. Secondly, what were they supposed to do? Once someone dies on Everest, they stay on Everest. End of story. It's the sad truth. A fact. Thirdly, once Russell found out, his Chief Super-Sherpa Purbha Tashi was dispatched to help and spent over 30 minutes with the dying man. Purbha has summited Everest more times than any other human being on the planet. It's over a dozen summits. This man knows the mountain like no other ever will and if Purbha can't help you, you are "buggered" as the Brits put it.
A second incident that same year, left Brice's reputation in tatters. From the article linked below: "On September 30, on Cho Oyu, the 26,906-foot peak 20 miles northwest of Everest, Chinese soldiers shot and killed a young nun who was trying to escape Tibet by way of a snowy pass called Nangpa La. Brice was running a commercial trip on Cho Oyu at the time, and he chewed out a guide who was circulating news of the shooting, since it might jeopardize their climbing permits."
These are wild speculation and accusations! Who is this guide, supposedly chewed out by Russell? This horriffic murder was captured on film by other climbers and was witnesed by many, many people. Russell reportedly freaked out when told that the news had gotten out from his own people. Was he upset that a young girl was brutally murdered in her last bid for freedeom? Hell yes! Was he also upset that any damaging news, right at that time, from his own people, would ruin years of Chinese back-and-forth for permits and rights to climb. Hell, yes!
What's upsetting here, to everyone involved, is that Russell chose Business over Moral Justice. But, the story was getting out anyway, why should Russell and his clients, and future clients have to pay the price? This is up-in-the-air and the jury is till out. Tibetan rights are very, very close to our heart, since we were in the same room as His Holiness the Dalai Lama and we're "changed" by him.
That all said, it cannot be understated that Russell Brice has DONE ALOT OF GOOD ON EVEREST AS WELL:
"During 13 years of guiding on Everest, he has played key roles in more than 15 rescues. Himex has also provided medical care and supplies for other teams and climbers, almost always free of charge. Brice makes genuine efforts to help local communities, pushing to raise wages for Tibetan workers and, in 2007, providing $20,000 worth of solar panels for the Rongbuk Monastery."
2 incidents in 2006 nearly ruined him.
In 2006, David Sharpe, another Brit, lay dying near the summit trail, while dozens of climbers passed him by. Some stopped to talk, but realized there was nothing to do for him and left him to die. Most of the climbers that day were from HimEx, Russell's group and were told by Russell to "let him go." It has been called "the most shameful act in the history of mountaineering."
First of all, Brice insists there was no call to let him know about David until that night. There is no audio either, although Discovery was filming him 24/7. Secondly, what were they supposed to do? Once someone dies on Everest, they stay on Everest. End of story. It's the sad truth. A fact. Thirdly, once Russell found out, his Chief Super-Sherpa Purbha Tashi was dispatched to help and spent over 30 minutes with the dying man. Purbha has summited Everest more times than any other human being on the planet. It's over a dozen summits. This man knows the mountain like no other ever will and if Purbha can't help you, you are "buggered" as the Brits put it.
A second incident that same year, left Brice's reputation in tatters. From the article linked below: "On September 30, on Cho Oyu, the 26,906-foot peak 20 miles northwest of Everest, Chinese soldiers shot and killed a young nun who was trying to escape Tibet by way of a snowy pass called Nangpa La. Brice was running a commercial trip on Cho Oyu at the time, and he chewed out a guide who was circulating news of the shooting, since it might jeopardize their climbing permits."
These are wild speculation and accusations! Who is this guide, supposedly chewed out by Russell? This horriffic murder was captured on film by other climbers and was witnesed by many, many people. Russell reportedly freaked out when told that the news had gotten out from his own people. Was he upset that a young girl was brutally murdered in her last bid for freedeom? Hell yes! Was he also upset that any damaging news, right at that time, from his own people, would ruin years of Chinese back-and-forth for permits and rights to climb. Hell, yes!
What's upsetting here, to everyone involved, is that Russell chose Business over Moral Justice. But, the story was getting out anyway, why should Russell and his clients, and future clients have to pay the price? This is up-in-the-air and the jury is till out. Tibetan rights are very, very close to our heart, since we were in the same room as His Holiness the Dalai Lama and we're "changed" by him.
That all said, it cannot be understated that Russell Brice has DONE ALOT OF GOOD ON EVEREST AS WELL:
"During 13 years of guiding on Everest, he has played key roles in more than 15 rescues. Himex has also provided medical care and supplies for other teams and climbers, almost always free of charge. Brice makes genuine efforts to help local communities, pushing to raise wages for Tibetan workers and, in 2007, providing $20,000 worth of solar panels for the Rongbuk Monastery."
We'd like to add, Russell treats the Sherpas like the human beings they are, not as lowlife porters as they've always been treated. Purbha is his family and every time a Sherpa is killed on the mountain, Russell cries like a baby whether that Sherpa worked for him or not because all the Sherpas are related and it's all family.
Purbha "Super-Sherpa" Tashi
We wish all the climbers a great season!
Nick Heil's Outside Magazine article on Brice
You cant climb a mountain on your hands and knees tim!!
ReplyDeleteI was given a copy of the 2006 Discovery Channel series on DVD as a Xmas present.
ReplyDeleteFirst & foremost - if you set foot on this almighty mountain, you accept total responsibility for yourself, and you have NO right to expect anyone else to put themselves in harms way, let alone risk their own lives for you.
People do push themselves too hard, and as the above videos clearly demonstrate, some clearly ignore what they're told to do and put themselves in further danger.
Also, Russell Brice is clearly committed to his teams (look at the logistical efforts he goes to - sherpas setting up advance camps and running ropes up the mountain). He's also demonstrably committed to his sherpas which is great to see.
The man who very sadly lay dying was not from Russell's expedition, and on any basis, practical or otherwise, there was nothing anyone could do. Furthermore, some did stop and "try" to help - but what could they do ? Purbha did indeed go up the mountain - but again, practically, what could he do ?
This was not Russell Brice's fault, nor his responsibility. I doubt he's ever "cost" the life of anyone on the mountain, yet I suspect he's responsible for MANY coming safely off the mountain WITH their lives.
Russell's not a nursery teacher here - this may be a little blunt - but these are not times for slushy emotions or over sentiment - this is a brutal reality of some of the toughest conditions on the planet, and at times / altitudes where even the brain doesn't function properly (bit like British politicians) and as above - people HAVE TO accept responsibility for themselves.
Maybe the team leader of the expedition from which this climber came shoulod be more under the spotlight.
Russell Brice should be applauded for his skill, care and committment to his entire teams.
Everyone always looks for a scapegoat, but in this case is clearly IS NOT Russell's fault.
However, it's sad to see anyone lose their life on Everest, and it seems callous to 'simply leave them there' but it's the reality. To the climber who lost his life, and indeed all climbers who've lost their lives; rest in peace and man God be with you.
The new documentary "Sherpa" seems to highlight Brice's true colors....selfish!
ReplyDeleteThe new documentary "Sherpa" seems to highlight Brice's true colors....selfish!
ReplyDelete